Thursday, April 26, 2007

20 hours on a bus is fun!

So, if you've kept up with my blogging you know that I've been studying a region of Tanzania called the Usangu plains, and right now I am supposed to be in the middle of a week long visit to the area to talk to the main land owners and goverment leaders involved in the evictions of pastoralists that have been happening since May last year. But, I was also not supposed to have internet connection for the entire week, yet here I am, sitting at my computer, blogging away.... so, with your powers of deduction, you assume one of two things:

1) I found a secret hidden internet cafe in the middle of nowhere, Tanzania; or
2) I am NOT in Usangu right now...but how could that be?

Well, number 2 is correct, congrats Sherlock! This past Sunday, I boarded a bus, bound for a 10 hour ride to Mbeya town, in Mbarali District, Tanzania. 10 hours passed rather uneventfully, and we arrived to discover that the following day we would have to travel for another few hours to get to the area that we were trying to go to. So on Monday, after meeting with a local official, we drove for those few hours to find the district commissioner of the Usangu area. Instead of finding her, we found another gentleman, the District Executive Director, who proceeded to tell us that we hadn't planned enough for the trip, that we were coming at a bad time, and that the District Commissioner would most likely not want to meet with us. On top of that, he told us that LEAT is widely viewed as a political position rather than as a non-profit organization, due to its association with our branch manager, Tundu Lissu, who I guess has a past in politics in Tanzania. (Understand, this was all spoken in Swahili, so I only have brief notes from a follow-up meeting and am not sure exactly what happened). Thoroughly discouraged, we spent a night in a guest house in the area, and met with the district commissioner the next day- now this woman was one BIG Mama. She also was not a big supporter of our plans, and basically told us to go home and come back later. Now, when the DC tells you to go home, you can't just ignore her, even if her reasons for doing so are based in exerting her political power rather than in any good explaination... she could have us arrested, though not held on any real charges... basically, that was the end of the Usangu trip. So yesterday, I got to get back on a bus and come 10 hours back to Dar Es Salaam, where I now sit typing on my computer back in the LEAT office.

Now, this is all well and good, I really enjoy spending money to ride for 20 hours on a bus within a 3 day period of time... really! However, I have learned a lot about the politics of the organization that I am involved in, as well as about the political corruption and power in the country. Indeed, the only question that I am left with is how I am supposed to turn this failed field study into a portion of my 20 page paper, which was really dependant on completing the interviews this week with the main stakeholders in Usangu. I am most likely going to end up writing a joint report on the history of Usangu and land law in Tanzania, and also serve as an exterior consultant to LEAT, giving them my opinions on how they could make the organization work more productively and fix the flawed reputation that they currently have across Tanzania. I have found that you must include a certain amount of flexibility in all plans in Africa, as nothing ever works out exactly how you would like....

6 comments:

mom said...

Jess
Sorry the trip turned a bit sour, But it does seem that something good will come because of your learning a bit of the political climate.This is when REAL leadership surfaces, when you can put something back on track that somewhere along the way got sidelined.Certainly , helping LEAT find a way back to a good reputation means you have your work cut out for you this week .What miracles shall you work?

John said...

Jess
If anybody can help a change to happen it will be you. You have always been a diplomat and been able to help people get along and change but you have your work cut out for you. LEAT sounds like as big a challenge as your paper and I wish you success in both. Whats next daughter..are you mabey thimking about studying law and going back to help them....Love dad

Katy said...

Wow!! I know you told me that you were headed to Africa but your account and pictures are honestly (excuse the cliche) out of this world! It's interesting to see how politics shapes society - I've definitely gotten a little taste of that on my travels in mainland China. Hong Kong is an amazing city - the semester is flying by as I'm sure you are experiencing.

Hope everything works out for you with the research - that sounds so frustrating but with every frustration there is a new learning experience (and a good story to write home about hah)

Best, KT

Sue Longsjo said...

Hi Jess,

Ah, the good news is that you are not in jail, never to be seen or heard again. Your insight and diplomacy will probably result in even a better paper that you might have originally planned. BIG mama probably didn't want to sit for a photo session either. Too bad. How about the bus trip? Any more photos to share? I can't wait for your next blog that tells us how you will proceed.
Love, Sue

Wayward said...

Sorry to hear plans were changed due to something as stupid as political desires and egos. It sounds like Africa is starting to change your outlook on things and for the better. I can't help but wonder where this whole experience will take you beyond this project...the doors it will open for you in pursuing a career wherever it may lead you...maybe more philanthropic endeavours? International law maybe? Whatever decision you make, you have friends and family back home that have faith in your abilities.

Alaska has broaden my horizons a bit as well, and I'm sure we'll both have stories to tell when we see each other again. Keep that spark of yours going, and I'm sure you'll produce something amazing from your time there. We'll have to celebrate your homecoming with some dare I say it...SUSHI.

-Rob

Maureen Gleason said...

sooo... I wrote this long comment and then clicked "publish your comment," and it told me I needed a google account, and then it deleted my comment. soo... I am writing you again to say that I have been reading your blogs, and Africa seems like fun, except for that whole appendicitis thing... and the 20 hours on a bus thing... But hey, its AFRICA!! so cool! I am stuck here in the room, studying for finals, wishing that I had had appendicitis and 20 hours on a bus ride in africa! gahhhh my roommate called her mom this morning to complain about how sick she is, and to complain that she did not pick up the phone at 12:30 am last night. I hope that everything works itself out in some way or other, you will make the most of it! When are you getting home? because when you do, we need to cook and eat and celebrate!!!
Love,
Boozie