Note: This blog was written on the 18th of April, and only posted today. It's likely another post will come soon since some things have changed...
Well, world, it’s been a while, and I apologize. I’ve been on an interesting and fast paced adventure, and never have time to write more than a sentence or two before the internet shuts down or ceases to exist. So here’s a brief list of what I’ve been doing and how I’ve been doing it….
But first, a moment of seriousness before the blog descends into chaos, it's general state of existence. My family lost a very important member just before Easter: my Granny, Martha Boren. She passed away unexpectedly, and I was devastated to learn about this and be so far away and unable to be with my family as they remembered the wonderful woman that she was. She was always incredibly supportive of my sister and I as we pursued our dreams, taught us so much about being good, responsible people, and was right behind me every step of the way on this trip. I remember her now as I write to you, and know that she’s still here with all of us in memory and spirit. Please send some positive energy my Granddad’s way, as I do every day that I can’t be there. I love and miss you, Granddad.
Now, a complete switch of topics, to one much lighter and easier to type than that last paragraph was... How am I traveling, you ask? I met 3 Swedish overlanders in Dahab, Egypt: Bjorn, Mikael, and Perry. Overlanders travel overland (...) in superloaded 4x4 vehicles, carrying everything but the kitchen sink with them (and I even met one who had the kitchen sink, as well as a full sized stove... but musings on overlanders must be saved for another blog). They can go on roads public transportation doesn’t conquer, and they usually go from either N to S or S to N(Europe to Africa, typically). In this case, it’s Sweden to S Africa in just over 4 months – crazy!
Well, Thomas and I *(Thomas is a CSer I stayed with in Dahab Egypt) traveled with the Swedes until Cairo, and then they headed south toward the Sudanese border as I did not succeed in getting a visa for Sudan in Cairo and was planning to travel south, back to Cairo, and fly to Ethiopia. As it worked out, Thomas and I headed south at a slower rate, hitchhiking a little bit (extraordinarily hard in Egypt), hopping on a train (and almost getting kicked off), and eventually reaching Aswan (at the Sudanese border, which is a lake). I unexpectedly succeeded in getting a Sudanese visa in Aswan, and the once a week ferry to Sudan was leaving that same day… so Thomas and I decided to keep on traveling together and to meet the Swedes who were also on this ferry (they were not expecting us since WE were not expecting us and it was a joyous reunion). They were down to 2 by this time, Per having lost his passport in Aswan and having to return to Sweden to get a new one.
Thomas and I traveled with Bjorn and Mikael from Wadi Halfa in Sudan to Addis Abeba in Ethiopia, stopping along the way at some amazing places that I’ll list later. Due to irreconcilable differences and some drama that you can read a summary of if you’re so inclined on www.2cape.com (the Swede’s website, which they’ve been much more conscientious about updating and where you can read our joint travel stories if you use google translate), Thomas and I went our separate ways – me continuing on with the Swedes, and him staying in Addis.
Which brings me to now, in the town of Arba Minch in Ethiopia, planning to take the most difficult-and-westernmost route through Ethiopia to Kenya and hoping the roads are not washed out by roaring rivers (as we experienced yesterday). Not that the super-tricked out land cruiser, with, get this, 37INCH wheels can’t ford rivers (we did that yesterday) that no other vehicle would dare to cross – it even has a snorkel so that the engine keeps going even if it’s slightly submerged. I’m leaving the Swedes in Nairobi, and actually embarking on the first solo part of my adventure since I’ve been traveling “solo”, ie without my faithful traveling companion Emily. Which won’t last for very long (the solo bit), since I’m planning to meet up with some kids from my study abroad experience in Tanzania who are currently working there, primarily LIZ!!!, and spend a whole bunch of time there before heading further south.
Whew. Now, a quick summarized list of my major experiences since Dahab:
- Got my Advanced Open Water SCUBA certification and did 8 dives in the red sea, including some of the best dives in the world (Blue Hole and Canyon).
- Saw the Pyramids, Sphinx, and Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
- Saw the Valley of the Kings and other tombs in Luxor.
- Was in de’nile. Literally, dipped my toes in the Nile River.
- Went to Aswan. Got Sudanese Visa.
- Took a 17 hour long ferry across a huge man made lake to the Sudanese lake port of Wadi Halfa. Saw Abu Simbel from the ship as the sun rose.
- Spent 4 days in Wadi Halfa unexpectedly as we all got sick and the boat with the car on it took a long time to arrive and be unloaded. Temperature: 42 degrees C!!!
- Traveled 1000KM in one day from Wadi Halfa to Khartoum. Spent 2 or 3 days relaxing in Khartoum, preparing to leave before the elections began. Longest day yet.
- Slept at the border between Sudan and Ethiopia. Literally, on the ground next to the car 10M from the borderpost. Ate canned tuna and corn. Don’t really like Tuna, as it turns out, but whatever. Total time in Sudan: under 1 week. Experience: Positive. More later.
- Crossed into Ethiopia. Went to stay at Tim and Kim’s village on a beautiful lake for 3 nights. Had the cutest dogs, best hosts, and coolest project ever. Check it out online! Got sick again. Sighhhh.
- Went up to Gondar. Stayed there for longer than we expected because Bjorn and Mikael’s camera got stolen. Sadly, not recovered.
- Drove halfway to Simian Mountains National PArk, camped on the top of a gravel pile overlooking some stunning Ethiopian landscape. Made the most delicious dinner of cold kidney beans, salsa, feta cheese, corn, and tuna fish. Really, you HAVE to try it.
- Visited Simian Mountains National Park. Saw tons of Gelada baboons – I was excited. Drove around for 6 or 8 hours, camped overnight, and returned to Gondar. Still no camera L.
- Went to lalibella. Churches hewn out of stone from the 12th century – amazing. Refused to pay 300Bir ($30) each to visit them. Snuck in, paid off a guard ($3), and got to see a bit of the church before he led us back to the ticket office, told on us, and we had to spend some time not getting arrested J. No problem, but left Lalibella that night. The drive was incredible.
- Brief pause: there is a tiny lizard 3 inches from my foot. Cool.
- Stopped somewhere I don’t remember… then went to Addis. Stayed at Wim’s House (you can also check this out online). Ate pizza and drank beers.
- Came to Arba Minch. Staying in paradise (the place is called Paradise Lodge) for less than $10 a night.
That’s it for now, folks. Next blog is intended to be a little more about why I travel and the people I’ve recently met, and a little less about the stuff I’ve been doing. Or, at least more detailed so you don’t have to do all the work to find the places I’ve been. And I’d have posted pictures if I could get my external harddrive to work, but it needs a computer doctor, so please be patient!
Finally, a shout out to World Traveler Kirschner! It’s our 10 month traveling anniversary on the 19th, and she’s off in the world on her own too! Don’t forget to check out her blog at ekirschner.blogspot.com… miss you!
Love to all,
Jess
